Short answer: yes, but you have to be smart about what “bolted” means. If you imagine running lag bolts straight down through the deck boards, that will damage the floorboards. It leaves visible holes, invites moisture into the wood, and can split soft boards over time. But you can absolutely install an urban bench on a wooden deck in a very secure way without putting holes through the visible board surface. The trick is to anchor below the deck, use the gaps between boards, or choose a non-penetrating weighted base.
Option 1: Anchor to the joists through the gaps.
If you can get under the deck, this is usually the cleanest method. Attach a heavy-duty angle bracket, flat steel bar, or custom mounting plate to the side of a joist or solid blocking. Extend a tab or threaded stud upward through the gap between two deck boards, then bolt the bench legs to that tab. This gives you a real mechanical connection to the deck frame without drilling through the face of a floorboard. Check that the gap is wide enough for the tab and hardware. Do not force or pry boards apart aggressively, because that can damage the board edges.
Option 2: Use gap-mounted clamps or T-bolts.
Some deck bench brackets use a T-shaped clamp or wedge that drops through the gap between boards and tightens against the underside of both boards. These can work for a bench, but for a heavy urban bench or high-use area I would only trust them with multiple clamps and metal brackets. Add thin rubber or EPDM pads where the bracket touches the board edges to reduce compression marks. Keep in mind that this method can still leave small pressure dents over time, especially on soft cedar or pine.
Option 3: Use a freestanding weighted base.
If the goal is truly zero deck modification, mount the bench to a heavy steel plate, concrete paver, or purpose-built bench base. Use rubber standoffs or spacers so the base does not trap water against the deck surface. The bench stays put by weight and friction rather than penetrating hardware. This is often the best choice for rented spaces, warranty-protected decks, or wood you simply do not want to mark.
If you must drill through the boards.
Use stainless steel bolts, not zinc deck screws. Find the joist first. Pre-drill the hole, apply a marine-grade sealant inside the hole and under the washer, then bolt through the board into the joist or solid blocking. Add blocking between joists if needed. You will still leave holes, so do it neatly and seal them properly. Think of it as controlled, sealed penetration rather than damage-free installation.
What I would avoid.
Do not rely on adhesive-only mounts for an urban bench. Construction adhesive may feel strong, but it is not reliable under repeated shifting loads, weather cycles, and people sitting down hard. It can also tear wood fibers if the bench is ever removed. Also avoid screwing into only the deck boards themselves, because individual boards are not designed to hold that kind of load and can pull up or crack.
My real-world recommendation is simple. If you can access the underside of the deck, use joist-mounted tabs through the board gaps. If you cannot access the underside, use a weighted base or gap-mounted clamps sized for the bench. Both can be solid enough for an urban bench if the hardware is heavy enough. For public, commercial, or high-traffic locations, check local building codes and have a contractor or fabricator confirm the deck structure and mounting system before installation.