Yes, you can absolutely build an urban bench from reclaimed wood without it turning into a splinter machine. The secret is not one magic product — it is a sequence: pick the right boards, clean them properly, stabilize the surface, sand thoroughly, ease the edges, and seal for the weather.
First, choose reclaimed wood that is still sound. Avoid boards that are deeply cracked, spongy, or full of rot. Old oak, teak, hard maple, or tight-grained fir work well. Weathered pine can also work if you remove the gray outer layer. Take out all nails, screws, and staples, then wire-brush or scrape away loose debris.
Next, flatten and fill. If a board has splits, nail holes, or knots, fill them with a high-quality exterior wood filler or two-part epoxy. Epoxy is especially good because it cures hard, sands smooth, and prevents water from getting into the cracks.
Sanding is the step most people rush. Start at 80 grit to remove rough grain and old finish, then move to 120, 180, and finish at 220 or higher on the sitting surface. A random orbital sander is your friend. To really prevent splinters, soften every edge and corner with sandpaper or a small roundover bit in a router. Splinters usually start at sharp edges, not just flat grain.
After sanding, vacuum or tack-cloth the surface. Then apply a durable outdoor sealer. A spar urethane or exterior polyurethane gives a smooth film, but it can peel over time if the wood moves. A penetrating exterior oil or hard wax oil soaks in, protects, and leaves a more natural feel, but you may need to reapply it once or twice a year. For city benches sitting in sun and rain, I often use a penetrating sealer first, then light maintenance coats.
The last secret is maintenance. Even the best finish wears over time, especially on high-contact edges. Check the bench every spring, re-sand any rough spots lightly with 220 grit, and refresh the sealer. That way a reclaimed wood bench can be smooth, full of character, and safe for bare hands and legs.