Yes, you can anchor an outdoor bench to pavement without damaging the surface, but you’ll need to skip the drill and think in terms of weight, grip, and removable adhesives.
The easiest method is ballast. Many outdoor benches have hollow legs or a hidden compartment that can be filled with sand, gravel, or concrete blocks. If yours doesn’t, place flat pavers, sandbags, or low-profile concrete blocks across the bench’s base or behind the legs. Aim for at least 150–200 pounds total so the bench doesn’t shift when someone sits down or when wind gusts hit it.
Next, protect the surface with rubber pads. Use heavy-duty rubber furniture pads, anti-vibration mats, or pieces cut from a horse stall mat under each leg. This prevents scratches, adds friction, and spreads the load. It’s especially important on asphalt, which can soften in hot weather and dent under concentrated weight.
If you want a more fixed connection, use a removable exterior adhesive. A thick bead of polyurethane or silicone adhesive under each foot will bond the bench to concrete or pavers. Let it cure for at least 24 hours before use. Later, you can usually cut through the adhesive with a putty knife or utility blade and scrape off the residue. Always test a hidden spot first, because some adhesives can leave a stain or ghost mark on porous stone or brick.
Avoid concrete screws, wedge anchors, powder-actuated nails, and any system that drills into the pavement. Those leave permanent holes and cracks, and they’re usually unnecessary for a bench.
A good all-purpose setup is rubber pads plus 150–200 pounds of hidden ballast. It keeps the bench steady, protects the pavement, and lets you move it later without a trace.